WHEN THE POWER GOES OUT · HEATING
A cold house during a winter outage is manageable with the right approach. Here's how to retain heat, what to heat with safely, and the CO rules that protect everyone inside.
FIRST PRIORITY
Retaining existing warmth is faster and cheaper than generating new heat. A well-insulated house loses 1–2°F per hour without any heat source. These steps slow that significantly.
Close off every room you are not actively using. Body heat from household members warms a small space measurably. A bedroom with a closed door retains heat far longer than an open-plan house.
Rolled towels at door bottoms. Tape over mail slots and unused vents. Draft snakes at exterior doors. These are five-minute actions that make a noticeable difference in a cold house.
Open blinds and curtains on south-facing windows during daylight hours. Close them at dusk. A sunny winter day adds meaningful heat through south-facing glass even when it's cold outside.
Don't wait until you're cold. Wool or synthetic base layers next to the skin, an insulating mid-layer, and an outer shell. Cotton retains moisture and loses insulation value when damp — it is the wrong choice for cold-outage clothing.
A sleeping bag rated to 20°F keeps you warm in a room that has dropped to 40°F. It is the single most effective piece of cold-outage equipment. A 0°F bag inside the same room is overkill but comfortable.
Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls. Let cold-water faucets drip. If the house will drop below 32°F and you will be away, shut off the main water supply and drain the pipes. Burst pipes cause more damage than the outage itself.
SAFE OPTIONS
Each of these options works. Each comes with conditions. Read those conditions before you rely on any of them in an outage.
The most reliable heat source in an extended outage. No electricity required. Runs on a renewable fuel you can store. A wood stove or EPA-certified insert can heat a substantial portion of a home.
Requires a functioning chimney inspected annually, dry seasoned wood stored before the outage, and a CO alarm. The Wood Heat guide covers installation and fuel storage.
Heaters labeled as indoor-safe — specifically ODS-equipped models like the Mr. Heater Buddy series — are designed to shut off if oxygen levels drop. They are a practical option when no other heat source is available.
Always crack a window one inch while running one. Always have a working CO alarm on the same level. Never run one while sleeping. The Propane Basics guide covers tank sizing and storage.
Many gas furnaces fail during an outage because the blower motor and igniter need electricity, not because the gas is off. A UPS or battery station rated for the blower motor (300–500W) can keep the furnace running.
Check your furnace's power requirements before the next outage. Some modern high-efficiency furnaces draw more current at startup than older models.
A convective kerosene heater provides substantial heat and burns safely indoors with adequate ventilation. Use only K-1 kerosene — off-road diesel and hardware-store "lamp oil" are not the same thing and burn differently.
Ventilate the space: crack two windows on opposite sides of the room. Refuel outdoors and allow the unit to cool first. CO alarm required.
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CARBON MONOXIDE SAFETY
These are common improvised heat sources that produce dangerous or lethal levels of carbon monoxide indoors. Each one causes deaths during winter outages every year.
Produces carbon monoxide when used for prolonged space heating. A leading cause of CO deaths in winter outages. Never use any gas cooking appliance for heat, even briefly, even with windows open.
A charcoal grill burning indoors produces lethal CO in minutes. This includes garages, covered porches, and basements. Charcoal produces CO long after flames die down. Never bring one inside.
Patio heaters, turkey fryers, and outdoor propane grills are not designed for indoor use and produce CO at levels that can be lethal. The "outdoor" label is not optional marketing — it is a safety specification.
Backpacking and camp stoves burn butane or propane and produce CO. They are designed for open-air or well-ventilated cooking — not enclosed spaces. Brief use for cooking in a ventilated area is different from using one as a heat source.
Install CO alarms on every level of the home and outside sleeping areas. Test them monthly. Replace them every 5–7 years or per manufacturer guidance — CO alarms have a finite sensor lifespan that most people don't know about.
If an alarm sounds: everyone leaves immediately, call 911 from outside, and do not re-enter until cleared by emergency services. CO incapacitates before it kills — do not try to locate the source yourself.
BUILD THE CAPABILITY
Install a wood stove or insert — the most reliable off-grid heat source available.
Tank sizing, storage, and safety for propane as a backup fuel for heat and cooking.
The full outage protocol, including when indoor temperature becomes a reason to leave.