Basic plumbing repairs

01 — Fixing a running toilet

A worn flapper valve is the most common cause. The part costs $5 to $10, requires no tools, and takes about 10 minutes to replace.

A toilet that runs continuously after flushing is almost always caused by a flapper valve that no longer seals properly. The flapper is the rubber or silicone disc at the bottom of the tank that lifts when you flush and drops back to seal the drain once the tank empties. Over time, the flapper warps, hardens, or accumulates mineral deposits that prevent a watertight seal. Water leaks continuously from the tank into the bowl, and the fill valve runs endlessly trying to replenish it.

• Diagnose it: Remove the tank lid and watch the flush cycle. If water continues flowing past the flapper after the tank should have sealed, the flapper is the problem. You can also add a few drops of food coloring to the tank water; if color appears in the bowl without flushing, the flapper is leaking.
• Fix it: Turn off the water supply valve (the small valve on the wall behind the toilet, turn clockwise). Flush to drain the tank. Unhook the old flapper from the overflow tube ears and disconnect the chain from the flush lever. Hook the new flapper onto the same ears and reconnect the chain, adjusting the length so the flapper lifts fully when the handle is pressed but rests flat when released. Turn the supply valve back on and let the tank fill.
• If replacing the flapper does not fix it: The fill valve may be faulty (water runs even with the flapper sealed), or the overflow tube may be set too low (water drains over the top). Fill valve replacement is also a DIY repair, but is slightly more involved.

02 — Repairing a dripping faucet

A worn washer, O-ring, or cartridge that no longer creates a watertight seal. The parts are inexpensive and available at any hardware store.

A faucet that drips when fully closed is leaking past an internal seal. The specific part depends on the faucet type. Compression faucets (two handles, one for hot and one for cold) use rubber washers that wear out over time. Single-handle cartridge faucets use a replaceable cartridge or ceramic disc that wears or cracks. Ball-type faucets (common in kitchens) use springs and rubber seats that degrade.

• Before you start: Turn off the water supply to the faucet. There are usually two shutoff valves under the sink (hot and cold). Turn both clockwise. Open the faucet to release remaining pressure.
• Identify the faucet type: Two handles = compression or cartridge. Single handle that moves side to side and up/down = ball or cartridge. Knowing the type tells you which internal parts to replace.
• Take the old parts to the hardware store: Disassemble the faucet handle (usually a screw under a decorative cap), remove the stem or cartridge, and bring the worn parts with you. Matching the exact replacement is easier with the original in hand than from a description.
• Reassemble and test: Install the new parts, reassemble the handle, turn the supply valves back on, and check for leaks. A proper seal should stop the drip completely.

03 — Thawing frozen pipes safely

Use a hair dryer, heating pad, heat lamp, or warm towels. Start at the faucet end and work toward the frozen section.

Frozen pipes are identified by reduced or absent water flow from a faucet during freezing weather, visible frost on exposed pipes, or a bulge in the pipe at the freeze point. If you suspect a frozen pipe, act quickly: the longer the water remains frozen, the more likely the pipe will burst.

• Open the faucet on the affected line before you start applying heat. Running water, even a trickle, helps melt the ice from the inside. The open faucet also relieves pressure as ice melts, reducing the risk of a burst.
• Apply heat starting at the faucet end and work toward the frozen section. This allows melting water and steam to escape through the open faucet rather than building pressure behind the blockage.
• Safe heat sources: Electric hair dryer (most common and effective), electric heating pad wrapped around the pipe, portable space heater (kept away from anything flammable), or towels soaked in hot water wrapped around the pipe and replaced as they cool.
• Continue applying heat until full water pressure is restored.
• If the frozen section is inside a wall, ceiling, or inaccessible location: Call a licensed plumber. You cannot safely apply heat to a pipe you cannot see, and the risk of hidden fire or pipe damage is too high for DIY work.

04 — Sump pump battery backup

Sump pumps run on electricity. Storms that cause flooding also cause power outages. Without a battery backup, the pump stops working exactly when you need it most.

A sump pump removes water that collects in a sump basin (usually in the basement or crawl space) and discharges it away from the home's foundation. During heavy rain or rapid snowmelt, the pump may cycle continuously to keep the basement dry. If the power goes out during the storm, the water has nowhere to go.

• Battery backup systems connect to a secondary pump or to the primary pump's power supply and automatically activate when grid power fails. Most battery backup sump pumps provide 5 to 12 hours of pumping capacity, depending on the battery size and how frequently the pump cycles.
• Water-powered backup pumps use municipal water pressure to operate a venturi pump that ejects sump water without electricity. They work as long as the municipal water supply has pressure, but they consume water (approximately 1 gallon of municipal water for every 2 gallons pumped). Not suitable for homes on well water.
• Test your backup system at least twice a year: once before the wet season and once during. Batteries lose capacity over time and should be replaced every 3 to 5 years, or as recommended by the manufacturer. A battery that tests well in September may fail in March if it was not maintained.
• Alarm systems: Install a water alarm in the sump basin that sounds when the water level rises above the pump's activation point. This alerts you to pump failure before the water reaches the floor level.

05 — When to call a plumber

DIY repairs save money on simple, visible, low-risk tasks. Plumbers handle everything that involves risk, code compliance, or systems you cannot see.

The line between DIY plumbing and professional plumbing is defined by three factors: risk (what happens if you get it wrong), visibility (can you see and access the problem), and code (does the work require permits or inspection).

The cost of a plumber is always less than the cost of water damage from a failed DIY repair. When in doubt, make the call.