01 — Window security
Windows are the second most common entry point, and the factory latch is rarely sufficient
According to FBI Uniform Crime Reporting data analyzed by security researchers, first-floor windows account for approximately 23 percent of residential burglary entry points, second only to front doors at 34 percent. The vulnerability is not mysterious: standard window latches are designed to hold a window closed, not to resist forced entry. A single-hung or double-hung window latch can often be defeated by applying lateral pressure to the frame or, in older windows, by sliding a thin blade past the latch mechanism. The factory latch is a convenience feature, not a security feature.
The UNC Charlotte study "Understanding Decisions to Burglarize from the Offender's Perspective" found that 83 percent of convicted burglars said they would check for security measures before attempting a break-in, and that visible deterrents, including signs of reinforced windows or alarms, were primary factors in target selection. A window that appears harder to open than a neighbor's is often sufficient to move the attempt elsewhere. Most residential burglaries are opportunistic rather than targeted, and the decision to attempt or abort typically takes under 60 seconds.
- Pin locks for sash windows. A sash pin or key pin is a metal pin drilled at a downward angle through the inner sash into (but not through) the outer sash. When the pin is in place, the window cannot be opened from outside even if the latch is defeated. The pin can be removed from inside in seconds for ventilation. Materials cost under $5 per window and the installation requires only a drill and a 3/16-inch bit.
- Window security film. Security film (typically 3M, Llumar, or equivalent) is applied to the glass interior surface and bonds the glass to the frame if it shatters. It does not prevent glass from breaking but prevents it from being pushed inward cleanly. A determined intruder can still get through, but the time required and the noise generated both increase substantially. Film is rated in mils (thousandths of an inch); 4-mil film provides meaningful resistance, 8-mil is better for ground-floor windows.
- Secondary blocking bars. A cut-down wooden dowel or an adjustable aluminum bar placed in the window track prevents the window from being opened more than a set distance even if the latch is defeated and no pin is in place. This allows ventilation while maintaining a security position. The bar should be sized so the maximum opening is less than 6 inches.
- Window alarms. Inexpensive magnetic contact sensors alert when a window is opened. More useful as an early-warning device than a deterrent on their own, but combined with visible signage indicating an alarm system is present, they address the deterrence factor the UNC Charlotte study identified as most influential on target selection.
02 — Sliding glass door security
The simplest fix for a sliding door is a bar in the track — but the lock mechanism itself is also a vulnerability
Sliding glass doors have two distinct security vulnerabilities. The first is the latch mechanism: most standard sliding door locks are hook-type latches that hold the door closed but do not bolt into the frame. Lateral force or a jolt to the door can cause them to fail. The second is the track itself: older sliding doors can be lifted off their bottom track and out of the frame entirely, bypassing the latch mechanism, if the anti-lift pins in the upper track are absent or worn.
The standard first fix for a sliding door is a blocking bar, either a purpose-made adjustable bar or a cut-down broomstick or wooden dowel placed in the bottom track. With the bar in place, the door cannot be slid open even if the latch is defeated. This is effective, inexpensive, and immediately reversible for normal use. The track bar addresses only the sliding vulnerability, not the lift-out vulnerability; anti-lift pins or a secondary security bar designed to prevent upward movement address the second failure mode.
- Track bar: the standard fix. A wooden dowel or aluminum bar cut to fit snugly in the lower track prevents the door from sliding. For a tighter fit that also resists the door being pushed off the track, the bar should be cut to length so it cannot rattle. Purpose-made bars with adjustable lengths and rubberized ends are available at hardware stores for under $20.
- Check for anti-lift pins. Open the door fully and look up into the upper track. There should be screws or pins that limit how far the door can be lifted. In older installations these may be absent. Adding anti-lift screws is a 15-minute task requiring only a drill and appropriate screws; they prevent the door from being lifted out of the track while closed.
- Secondary door pin. Drilling a hole at a downward angle through the inner door frame into (but not through) the outer frame, matching the sash pin technique used for windows, prevents the door from being opened even if the track bar is not in place. It is a useful backup, particularly for households where the track bar is sometimes forgotten.
- Lock quality matters at the handle. Aftermarket sliding door bolts that throw into a mortise in the door frame provide significantly better resistance than the standard hook latch. These require some installation effort but convert the door's lock from a simple catch to a bolted closure.
Renters: these fixes are renter-friendly
Track bars and security pins that do not require permanent modification are appropriate for rented properties. They require no drilling, cause no damage to the door or frame, and can be removed when leaving. The door pin method does require drilling but the hole can be filled with a wooden plug when vacating.
03 — Garage door security
The emergency release cord is a known entry method, and the fix takes 30 seconds
Attached garages are among the most commonly exploited entry points for residential break-ins because they often connect directly to the home's interior through an internal door that receives less security attention than the front door. The garage door itself has a specific, widely documented vulnerability: the emergency release cord. This cord is the bright red or orange pull-handle that hangs from the opener mechanism and allows the door to be manually operated during a power outage. It is accessible from outside by inserting a stiff wire between the door and frame at the top, hooking the cord, and pulling it. The door then opens manually. The technique is demonstrated in numerous automotive and security training videos and is well known to law enforcement.
The fix is a zip tie through the release lever's hole. A small zip tie threaded through the slot in the release lever that would otherwise catch the wire prevents the wire from engaging the lever. The zip tie is strong enough to resist outside manipulation but thin enough to break immediately if pulled by a person inside the garage in a genuine emergency. This is the standard fix recommended by security practitioners and costs under $0.25. The internal door connecting the garage to the home should also be treated as an exterior door: solid core, deadbolt, and no access through a window or mail slot.
- The zip tie fix. Thread a small zip tie through the hole in the emergency release lever and cinch it. This prevents the lever from being engaged by a hook wire inserted from outside while allowing a person inside to break it in a genuine emergency by pulling with both hands. Replace it annually or after any emergency use.
- Garage door shield. A commercial product, the garage door defender or lock shield, covers the gap at the top of the door and physically blocks the insertion of a wire. These are available at hardware stores for $15 to $30 and provide a more robust solution than the zip tie alone.
- Treat the interior garage door as an exterior door. The door from the garage into the home is often a hollow-core interior door with a basic knob lock. This door should be solid-core, equipped with a deadbolt, and should not have a window. An attached garage that is breached through the exterior door provides direct access to the home through whatever interior door exists.
- Lock the garage door when not in use. An opener code alone does not lock the door mechanically. Most modern openers have a vacation mode or manual lock that engages a secondary bolt. When the garage is not in active use for an extended period, the manual lock or vacation mode prevents both wireless code capture and cord exploitation.
During a power outage
The zip tie must be breakable for the emergency release to function. The zip tie fix does not prevent emergency egress; it prevents outside manipulation. A person inside the garage can break the zip tie with a firm two-handed pull. If the tie cannot be broken, it has been replaced with something stronger than a standard 18-lb rated tie and should be corrected immediately.
Quick reference
- Windows (23% of burglary entry points): sash pins cost under $5 per window and prevent opening even if the latch is defeated. Security film slows glass breach and increases noise. A dowel in the track allows ventilation while blocking full opening.
- Sliding glass doors: track bar in the bottom channel is the standard first fix. Check for anti-lift pins in the upper track. The latch mechanism is not a bolt and should be supplemented.
- Garage doors: thread a small zip tie through the emergency release lever hole. This blocks the coat-hanger wire technique while remaining breakable from inside in an emergency. Also treat the interior garage-to-home door as an exterior door: solid core, deadbolt, no window.
- The UNC Charlotte burglar study (422 convicted offenders) found that visible security measures are the primary factor in target selection. Making a home appear harder than the next one is often sufficient to redirect an opportunistic attempt.
Primary sources
- FBI Crime Data Explorer (UCR Program): residential burglary volume and entry-point data; 55.7% forcible entry rate from 2019 UCR; 2024 data showing 52% of all burglaries targeting residential properties. The 34% front door / 23% first-floor window / 22% back door entry point breakdown derives from ADT security research cited against the UCR baseline in multiple FBI-sourced analyses.
- UNC Charlotte: "Through the Eyes of a Burglar" (Kuhns et al., 2013): 422 convicted burglars across three states; 83% would check for alarm before attempting a burglary; 60% would seek a different target if alarm present; visible deterrents including surveillance equipment and alarm signage were primary target-selection factors.
- SafeHome.org: Burglary Statistics (citing FBI UCR 2024 data): 2024 national burglary rate of 229.2 per 100,000 residents; daytime burglaries outnumbering nighttime incidents in 2024; the 10–12 minute average time inside a home.