ENERGY · THE DEFINITIVE GENERATOR GUIDE

Generators. The full picture.

Three generator types, each right for a different situation. How to size one honestly. The fuel and wiring details that determine whether yours actually works. And the CO safety rules that are not optional.

By Dan Whelan, founder of New World Survival

Researched from government agencies, university extension services, and other published sources. See our sources

FROM THE FIELD

Most generator failures during real outages are not mechanical. They are the consequence of a generator that sat in a garage for two years with stale fuel, a gummed carburetor, and an owner who never once pulled the cord to test it. That pattern surfaces in account after account, from ice storms to hurricanes to wind events. The generator was there. The fuel was old. Nobody had run it since the day they took it out of the box. This page covers the decisions that matter before you get to that moment.

CARBON MONOXIDE SAFETY

Generators kill people. CO is the reason.

Carbon monoxide is odorless and colorless. A generator running in an enclosed space produces enough CO to be lethal within minutes. Every year in the US, dozens of people die from generator CO poisoning during and after storms. Most die in their homes or garages.

Non-negotiable rules

  • Never run a generator indoors
  • Never run one in an attached garage, even with the door open
  • Never run one under a deck, carport, or near a window
  • Place at least 20 feet from any door, window, or vent
  • Point the exhaust away from the house
  • Install CO alarms on every level of your home

From the field · Accounts from named storms describe the same dangerous shortcut: households worried about theft pull the generator closer to the house or into a garage. The CO risk does not care about the reason.

If a CO alarm sounds

Leave immediately. Do not stop to turn off the generator. Do not go back for belongings. Call 911 from outside. Do not re-enter until cleared by emergency services.

CO alarms belong on every level of the house and outside sleeping areas. Test them monthly. Replace them every 5 to 7 years.

The full safety guide covers placement distances, grounding, refueling, transfer switches, and wet-weather operation.

START HERE

What kind of generator fits your household?

Generators are classified by technology and installation type, not by use case. There are three real categories. Everything else (fuel type, voltage, RV-ready outlets, parallel capability) is a feature within one of these three.

$400 to $1,500

Portable generators

Conventional open-frame machines. An engine spins an alternator at a fixed speed to produce AC power. Loud, high-wattage, and the lowest cost per watt. Gasoline, dual-fuel, or tri-fuel. Larger models produce 120/240-volt split-phase power for well pumps and transfer switches.

Best for: high-wattage needs, lower budgets, households with larger loads and transfer-switch connections.

$500 to $3,000

Inverter generators

Produces AC, converts it to DC, then electronically inverts it back to clean, stable AC. Quieter because the engine throttles to match the load. Safe for laptops, medical devices, and sensitive electronics. Enclosed suitcase models through large open-frame split-phase units.

Best for: electronics, CPAPs, quiet neighborhoods, RV use, parallel-linked pairs, and households that value fuel efficiency.

$3,000 to $15,000+ installed

Standby generators

Permanently installed, connected to natural gas or propane, and starts automatically within seconds of a grid failure. No fuel hauling, no manual starting, no extension cords. An automatic transfer switch handles the utility disconnect. Air-cooled or liquid-cooled.

Best for: medical dependence on power, frequent multi-day outages, households that cannot tolerate any gap in electricity.

Not sure which type? Start with what you need to run.

The right generator depends on load first, type second. A household that only needs to keep the refrigerator cold and charge devices has different options than one with a 240-volt well pump and a sump pump. The difference between a $500 solution and a $5,000 one is usually whether the house has a well.

THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE

Six guides. Everything you need.

Each guide goes deep on one piece of the generator decision. Read the type guide that fits your situation, then the sizing, fuel, and safety guides that apply to all three.

BY GENERATOR TYPE

FOR EVERY GENERATOR TYPE

From the field · The maintenance question surfaces more than any sizing or wiring question: owners who never exercised the generator, never changed the oil, and never rotated the fuel discover all three problems at once, in the dark.

FUEL

Fuel on hand before you need it

After a major storm, gas stations lose power along with everyone else. A generator with no fuel is a very expensive paperweight. The fuel you store before the outage is the fuel you have.

A 3,500-watt generator at half load burns roughly half a gallon per hour. Fifteen gallons provides 30 hours of runtime. That is three to four days at eight hours of daily use. Dual-fuel generators add propane, which stores indefinitely without degradation.

The full fuel guide covers gasoline stabilization, propane tank sizing, natural gas dependency, diesel storage, and the consumption math for multi-day outages.

STRETCHING EVERY GALLON

Run the generator in shifts

A generator does not need to run around the clock. Run it for one to two hours: pull the refrigerator and freezer back to temperature, recharge the battery station, top off phones. Then shut it down.

The battery power station carries the quiet loads while the generator is off: router, CPAP, lights, overnight charging. Households running this pattern burn a few gallons a day instead of a tankful, get silent nights, and put fewer hours on the engine.

The refrigerator guide covers the coasting schedule in detail.

WIRING IT IN

Transfer switches. Not optional.

Extension cords from a generator to individual appliances work for light loads. Connecting a generator directly to your home wiring without a transfer switch is illegal in most jurisdictions and dangerous to utility workers restoring power on the lines you are backfeeding.

Manual transfer switch

Installed at your main panel by a licensed electrician. You flip the switch to disconnect from the grid and connect the generator. Lets you safely run selected circuits without extension cords.

$200 to $800 for hardware plus electrician labor.

Automatic transfer switch

Required for standby generators. Monitors grid power and starts the generator automatically within seconds of detecting an outage. Transfers power to the home without any human action.

Included with most standby installations, or $300 to $1,000 added to a portable setup.

The safety guide covers transfer-switch types, generator inlets, interlocks, grounding requirements, and why a "suicide cord" is exactly as dangerous as it sounds.

Maybe you do not need a generator at all

A battery power station is not a generator. It stores electricity rather than producing it through an engine. But for households whose critical loads are a refrigerator, lights, phones, a router, and a CPAP, a battery station paired with a solar panel may cover a two-day outage without fuel, noise, CO risk, or any outdoor placement concern.

Battery stations are the only backup power option safe for indoor use. They are also the quiet overnight companion when paired with a generator running in shifts.

Portable Power Stations: The Complete Guide

About the author

Dan Whelan is the founder of New World Survival. He and his wife Vicki rode out Hurricane Andrew in 1992 and spent the week after sorting donations at a relief center in Homestead. More than thirty years of household preparedness later, he built this site to pass on what works. Read their story