Home Self-Reliance Water Well Water Preparedness

Water — Track 1: Well Owner Guide

Your well is self-reliant. Your pump is not.

43 million American households draw water from a private well. Every one of them loses that water the moment the power goes out. The pump is the single point of failure — and fixing it is more straightforward than most people assume.

Backup power options Annual maintenance

How well systems work

Three components — each one matters.

A private well system has three main components: the well itself (the casing, drilled into the aquifer), the submersible pump (sitting at the bottom of the well, pushing water up), and the pressure tank (a sealed tank that stores pressurized water so the pump doesn't have to cycle on for every small draw).

Water flows when the pump runs. The pump runs on electricity. When electricity stops, the pump stops. The pressure tank provides a small reserve — typically 5–10 gallons of usable water before pressure drops below the cut-in threshold — and then the system has no more water to deliver.

Municipal customers lose water when the utility's infrastructure fails. Well owners lose water when the power fails. In extended power outages — which happen regularly during winter storms, hurricanes, and infrastructure failures — well owners face a water shortage that municipal customers don't, and at exactly the moment when demand for clean water is highest.

Well system at a glance

Well casing

Steel or PVC pipe drilled into the aquifer. Sealed at the top with a well cap. Depth ranges from under 50 feet (shallow well) to over 300 feet (deep well). Depth determines which backup pump solutions are available.

Submersible pump

Electric pump submerged near the bottom of the casing. Pushes water up to the surface. Runs on 120V or 240V depending on size. The single point of failure in any power outage.

Pressure tank

Holds pressurized water so the pump doesn't cycle on for every draw. Provides 5–10 usable gallons before pressure drops. In an outage, this reserve drains quickly.

Pressure switch

Monitors system pressure and cycles the pump on when pressure drops below the cut-in point (typically 20–30 psi). The switch you'll engage when testing your system.

Backup solutions

Three ways to have water when the power is out.

Each approach has different costs, effort levels, and long-term reliability. Most prepared well households combine two of these.

Generator

Power the existing pump

Upfront cost$500–3,000+
Ongoing costFuel + maintenance
OutputFull flow rate
DurationAs long as fuel lasts

A generator connected to your well pump circuit restores full normal water pressure and flow — every tap, toilet, shower, and appliance works exactly as usual. This is the most convenient backup solution for typical outages of a few hours to a few days.

Generator sizing for well pumps: The starting surge is the critical factor. Submersible pumps draw 3–4 times their running wattage when starting. A 1/2 HP pump (750 running watts) may require 2,500 startup watts. A 1 HP pump (1,500 running watts) may require 4,500–5,000 startup watts. Check your pump's nameplate for HP and voltage, then size the generator for 3–4x the running wattage. An undersized generator will fail to start the pump and may trip on overload.

Fuel planning: A portable generator running 8 hours per day uses 12–20 gallons of gasoline depending on load. For extended outages, fuel storage becomes critical. Store treated fuel (with stabilizer) in approved containers. A dual-fuel generator (gasoline and propane) adds flexibility — propane stores indefinitely and can be cached in bulk. See the Generator Preparedness guide for complete generator planning.

Transfer switch: Never connect a generator directly to your home's wiring without an approved transfer switch. Backfed power can injure or kill utility workers and neighbors on shared lines. A manual transfer switch (~$300–500 installed) or automatic transfer switch (~$1,000–3,000 installed) is the correct connection method.

Deep well hand pump

Mechanical backup, no power needed

Upfront cost$1,200–$2,500
Ongoing costMinimal
Output~1–3 gal/min
DurationIndefinite

A hand pump installs alongside your existing submersible pump — no need to remove or modify your electric pump. The hand pump has its own drop pipe that goes down the casing, and a mechanical piston mechanism at the surface that draws water up with each stroke. No electricity, no fuel, no moving parts that require power. Two pumps can operate independently from the same well.

The two serious options: Simple Pump and Bison Pump are the leading manufacturers of deep well hand pumps for residential use. Both are designed to work alongside an existing electric pump, install to depths of 250+ feet, and deliver 1–3 gallons per minute depending on depth and stroke effort. Simple Pump also offers a 12V motorization kit — a solar-powered motor that replaces hand pumping for daily use while retaining the manual backup option.

Static water level is the critical number: The static water level (the distance from the surface to the water in the well at rest) determines which pump model and pipe length you need. You can find this on your well driller's report — typically filed with your county health department when the well was drilled. If you don't have the report, a well driller can measure it for a modest fee. See the full comparison on the Deep Well Hand Pumps guide.

Shallow wells (under 25 feet): Simpler and less expensive pump options exist for shallow wells. A Lehman's cast-iron pitcher pump or similar shallow-well hand pump handles water at these depths for $200–600. The Simple Pump and Bison Pump are overkill for shallow wells.

Solar-powered well pump

Independent power for the pump

Upfront cost$800–$3,000+
Ongoing costVery low
OutputDepends on sun
DurationIndefinite (daytime)

Solar-powered well pump systems use a DC solar pump (designed for direct solar operation or battery-backed operation) with a panel array sized to power the pump during daylight hours. Unlike grid-tied solar with battery backup, a dedicated solar well pump system can operate independently of your home's electrical system entirely.

The most practical configuration for emergency backup is a separate DC pump on its own solar circuit — either a surface pump moving water from a holding tank, or a DC submersible pump lowered alongside the existing electric pump. This approach is simpler and lower-cost than retrofitting the entire existing system to solar operation.

Solar pump systems work best for households with consistent daily water needs (livestock, irrigation, household supply) where the daytime production aligns with demand. For emergency backup in a prolonged outage, a solar-charged battery bank driving a DC pump provides power even at night or on cloudy days.

This is a more involved installation than a generator or hand pump and generally requires an electrician or solar installer. The upfront investment is higher, but the operating cost over years is essentially zero once installed.

Well types

Shallow vs. deep well — the answer that determines everything else.

Every backup pump decision, generator sizing question, and hand pump recommendation depends on knowing your well depth and static water level. Find these numbers before planning any backup system.

Shallow well

Static water level under 25 feet

Shallow wells draw from a water table close to the surface. They typically use a jet pump (above-ground) or a small submersible. The advantage is simpler and cheaper backup options — a standard pitcher pump or a shallow-well hand pump works without the specialized equipment needed for deep wells.

Backup options: Lehman's cast-iron hand pump (~$200–400), shallow-well jet pump run on generator, or small DC solar pump.

Contamination vulnerability: Shallow wells are more susceptible to surface contamination than deep wells — agricultural runoff, flooding, and septic system proximity all pose greater risks. Annual testing and proper wellhead protection are more critical for shallow wells.

Deep well

Static water level 25+ feet (often 100–300+ feet)

Deep wells draw from a confined aquifer. They use a submersible pump lowered on the drop pipe to near the bottom of the casing. Deep wells require more specialized backup solutions — standard hand pumps and jet pumps can't lift water from significant depths.

Backup options: Simple Pump or Bison Pump (for depths up to 250+ feet), sized generator with transfer switch, or solar pump system.

Key numbers to know: Total well depth, static water level (distance to water at rest), pump depth, and casing diameter (typically 4–6 inches). These are on your well driller's report.

Where to find your well report: Well driller's reports are typically filed with your county or state health department. Many states have made these searchable online by property address. Contact your county health department if you can't locate yours.

Water testing

Municipal customers get tested. Well owners test themselves.

Municipal water is regulated and tested continuously by the utility. Private well water is the owner's responsibility — the EPA has no jurisdiction over private wells, and no one tests your water unless you do.

What to test and when

Every year

Coliform bacteria (including E. coli) and nitrates. These are the two most common well water contaminants and can change with seasonal fluctuations, agricultural activity, and septic system performance.

When moving in

Full panel including: bacteria, nitrates, pH, hardness, iron, manganese, lead, arsenic, and any contaminants specific to your region (PFAS in areas near military bases or industrial sites, uranium or radon in certain geology).

After any of these events

  • Flooding or surface water reaching the wellhead
  • Any well construction, repair, or pump replacement
  • New agricultural or industrial activity nearby
  • Change in taste, color, or odor of the water
  • Gastrointestinal illness in the household without another likely cause

How to find a certified lab

Contact your state health department — they maintain lists of certified water testing laboratories and often offer subsidized testing for well owners
Your county extension office often coordinates water testing programs at reduced cost for rural households
National mail-in lab testing services (Tap Score, SimpleLab, National Testing Laboratories) offer comprehensive panels with results interpretation
Do not rely solely on home test strips for health decisions — they are useful for screening but not a substitute for certified laboratory testing

Water Testing for Homeowners

Full guide — what to test for, how to interpret results, and when to act on them.

Testing guide →

Shock chlorination

When your well needs disinfecting — how to do it correctly.

Shock chlorination introduces a high concentration of chlorine throughout the well and household plumbing to kill bacteria. It is the standard response to bacterial contamination and a required step after flooding.

When to shock chlorinate

  • After flooding that reached or surrounded the wellhead
  • After any well construction, repair, or pump removal and reinstallation
  • When bacterial testing returns positive results for coliform or E. coli
  • When household members experience gastrointestinal illness linked to the water supply
  • When moving into a home with a well that hasn't been recently tested or maintained

Before you shock chlorinate

Shock chlorination kills bacteria but does not address chemical or heavy metal contamination. If your testing shows non-biological contamination, chlorination is not the appropriate response — consult your state health department. Also: chlorinated water discharged during flushing can harm aquatic life. Discharge into a lawn or soil rather than directly into a stream or drainage ditch.

The shock chlorination process

1

Calculate well volume. Well volume (gallons) = depth (ft) × casing diameter² × 0.0408. A 100-foot well with a 6-inch casing holds approximately 14.7 gallons.

2

Mix the chlorine solution. Use unscented household bleach (6–8.25% NaOCl). The target is 50–200 ppm chlorine in the well water. Your state extension office provides precise dosage charts based on well volume and bleach concentration.[1]

3

Introduce the solution and circulate. Pour the solution into the well and run each household tap until a strong chlorine smell is detectable at every fixture. This ensures the solution reaches the entire system including the pressure tank and all branches.

4

Let stand 12–24 hours. Do not use the water during this period. The chlorine needs contact time to disinfect the well casing, pressure tank, and household pipes.

5

Flush until no chlorine smell. Run an outdoor hose (discharging to soil) until you can no longer detect chlorine. Then flush interior taps one at a time. When all traces of chlorine are gone, the system is ready for normal use.

6

Re-test in 1–2 weeks. Test for bacteria after the chlorine has completely flushed and the well has returned to equilibrium. Confirm the shock chlorination was effective.

Cold weather

Freeze protection for wellheads and pressure tanks.

Wellhead

A properly installed well casing extends above grade with a sanitary well cap. The well itself (below ground) doesn't freeze — the frost line in most of the US is 1–6 feet deep, well above the pump depth. The above-ground portion and the electrical connections are the freeze risks. Insulate exposed wiring and the top of the casing if you're in a region with extreme cold.

Pressure tank

Pressure tanks installed in unheated spaces (garages, crawl spaces, outdoor pump houses) can freeze in severe cold. The water inside expands, damages the bladder, and can split the tank or associated plumbing. Keep pressure tanks in conditioned space, or insulate the pump house with a small heat source (heat tape on pipes, a small thermostat-controlled heater) in climates that see hard freezes.

Discharge lines

The water line from the wellhead to the house must be buried below the frost line for your region. If yours isn't (older installs or surface-run lines), insulate or bury it before winter. Any above-grade pipe runs on the outside of the house are high freeze risk — wrap with heat tape and insulation, or reroute below grade.

Annual maintenance

The well owner's annual checklist.

A well maintained annually rarely fails without warning. A well neglected for years often fails at the worst possible moment. This list takes two to three hours once a year.

Water quality

Test for coliform bacteria and nitrates (certified lab)

Note any change in taste, odor, or color since last year

Check pH if water is corrosive to fixtures

Review last year's test results — any trends?

Physical inspection

Inspect well cap — intact seal, no cracks, vermin access blocked

Check wellhead for erosion or pooling near the casing

Inspect pressure tank pressure (should match pump cut-in minus 2 psi)

Listen for pump cycling — short cycles indicate waterlogged tank

Backup systems

Test generator — start under load, verify transfer switch operation

Check generator fuel level and add stabilizer if storing

Test hand pump if installed — verify operation and lubricate per manufacturer

Verify stored water supply is current and rotation is on schedule

Record keeping

File this year's test results with prior years

Note any repairs, pump changes, or unusual observations

Confirm well driller's report is on file (call county if missing)

Update emergency contact: well driller and pump service provider

Next steps

The well is understood. Now choose your backup.

Deep Well Hand Pumps

Simple Pump vs. Bison Pump — the head-to-head comparison, static water level requirements, and installation guidance.

Hand pump guide →

Water Testing

Full guide to testing well water — what to test for, certified lab options, and how to interpret results.

Testing guide →

Generator Preparedness

Generator sizing for well pumps, transfer switches, fuel storage, and the full generator planning guide.

Generator guide →

Sources

  1. CDC. "Shock Chlorination of Private Water Supplies." Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. cdc.gov
  2. EPA. "Private Drinking Water Wells." United States Environmental Protection Agency. epa.gov
  3. CDC. "Testing Your Well Water." Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. cdc.gov