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Transportation · When transportation fails

Breakdowns and emergencies.

Something will fail on the road eventually. A flat tire, an overheating engine, a dead battery, or worse. Knowing the procedure before it happens turns a crisis into a managed situation.

Pull-over procedure Tire blowout

Before it happens

Every driver will deal with this.

AAA responds to roughly 32 million roadside calls per year. The most common reasons: dead batteries, flat tires, lockouts, and overheating. These are not rare events reserved for old vehicles or careless drivers. A nail picks up in a brand-new tire at a construction site. A battery that was fine yesterday fails on the coldest morning of the year. A coolant hose that has been quietly degrading for 60,000 miles gives way at 70 mph. The vehicle, the mile marker, and the day are unpredictable. The response should not be.

The difference between a manageable inconvenience and a dangerous situation is almost always the same three things: knowing the correct procedure before you need it, having the right equipment in the vehicle, and staying calm enough to follow the steps in order. Panic is the enemy of procedure. Procedure is the antidote to panic.

This page covers the procedures for every common breakdown and emergency scenario. Your vehicle emergency kit covers the gear you should carry. Your Automotive Basics section covers the hands-on skills, including changing a flat tire step by step and diagnosing problems systematically. Your vehicle safety systems page explains the warning lights that may trigger the pull-over in the first place.

Read through each scenario once now, while you are comfortable and unhurried. The time to learn the blowout procedure is not at 65 mph with a blown right rear tire.

First response

The pull-over procedure.

Regardless of what has gone wrong, the first response is always the same: get the vehicle safely off the road. This procedure applies to flat tires, warning lights, strange noises, steam from the hood, loss of power, or any condition that makes continuing unsafe. Learn this sequence and it covers every scenario.

01

Hazard lights on

The moment you recognize a problem, activate hazard lights. This is always the first action because it warns every driver around you that something is wrong. On most vehicles, the hazard button is the largest, most prominent button on the dashboard, marked with a red triangle. Know where yours is without looking.

02

Slow gradually

Ease off the accelerator. Do not brake hard unless the situation requires an immediate stop. Gradual deceleration gives vehicles behind you time to react. Check your mirrors to assess traffic around you as you slow.

03

Move right

Signal right and steer to the right shoulder, a wide spot, a parking lot, or an exit ramp. Get as far from the travel lanes as possible. A flat, paved surface is better than a soft shoulder where the vehicle might sink, tilt, or be unstable for a jack. If you can see a safer location a few hundred yards ahead (a wider shoulder, a rest area entrance, an exit ramp), continue slowly to reach it rather than stopping in a worse spot.

04

Secure the vehicle

Put the transmission in park (or first gear for a manual). Set the parking brake firmly. Turn off the engine unless you need climate control while waiting for help (extreme heat or cold). If you are on any incline, turn the front wheels toward the curb or road edge so the vehicle will not roll into traffic if the parking brake fails.

05

Make yourself visible

Leave hazard lights on. If you have reflective warning triangles in your emergency kit, place them behind the vehicle: one at 10 feet, one at 100 feet, and one at 200 to 300 feet on highways. Place them on the traffic side so approaching drivers see the warning before they reach your vehicle. At night, these triangles and any LED flares in your kit are critical. A dark vehicle on a dark shoulder is nearly invisible.

06

Assess and decide

From a safe position, identify the problem. Flat tire on which side? Steam from under the hood? Grinding noise? Warning light? Smell of fuel or burning? A clear diagnosis determines whether you can fix it yourself (flat tire on the non-traffic side, dead battery with jumper cables available), need roadside assistance, or need 911. Make one call and give clear information.

Choosing the right stopping location

Not all stopping locations are equally safe. When you have a choice, these factors matter:

  • Flat, paved, and level. A firm surface supports a jack safely. A soft shoulder may allow the jack to sink. A slope makes the vehicle unstable. If the only available shoulder is soft or sloped, drive slowly to a better location if the vehicle can still move safely.
  • Straight stretch with good sight distance. Stop where approaching drivers can see you from a distance, not just past a curve, over a hill crest, or in a blind spot. If you are forced to stop near a curve, place your warning triangles far enough back (300+ feet) to give approaching drivers time to react.
  • Well-lit at night. Under a streetlight, near a highway light pole, or at a well-lit exit ramp. Visibility protects you from passing traffic and makes it easier for help to find you.
  • Away from intersections and merge zones. These are high-conflict areas where drivers are changing speed and position. A breakdown near a merge point adds your stopped vehicle to an already complex traffic pattern.

Emergency response

Tire blowout.

A blowout is sudden and violent. You will hear a loud bang or explosion, followed by a rapid flapping or thumping sound. The vehicle pulls hard toward the side with the blown tire. The steering wheel may jerk. The instinct to slam the brakes is strong and wrong. Hard braking during a blowout shifts weight unpredictably and can cause loss of control, a spin, or a rollover, especially in SUVs, trucks, and vehicles with a higher center of gravity.

The blowout response

  1. 1. Grip the wheel firmly. Both hands, 9-and-3 or 10-and-2 position. The vehicle will pull toward the blown tire. Counter the pull with firm, steady pressure. Do not jerk the wheel.
  2. 2. Do not brake. Ease off the accelerator and let the vehicle slow on its own through wind resistance and rolling friction. The flat tire itself creates substantial drag. If the vehicle pulls very hard and you are struggling to maintain a straight path, a very brief and gentle press on the accelerator can help stabilize the vehicle before you begin coasting down. This counterintuitive step works because the added speed restores the balance of forces across all four wheels.
  3. 3. Steer gently toward the shoulder. Small, smooth corrections. Overcorrecting is the second most common blowout mistake after hard braking. The goal is to guide the vehicle to the right side of the road in a controlled, gradual arc.
  4. 4. Brake lightly only after slowing. Once below 25 to 30 mph, gentle braking is safe. Come to a stop as far off the road as possible.
  5. 5. Hazard lights on. Secure the vehicle. Then assess the situation. Which tire blew? Is it on the traffic side or the non-traffic side? Is the shoulder wide enough and firm enough to work safely? Is there a better location within walking distance?

Front tire versus rear tire blowout

A front tire blowout affects steering directly. The vehicle pulls hard toward the blown side and the steering becomes heavy and sluggish on that side. Your primary job is to keep the vehicle going straight using firm steering input until speed drops enough to control the direction.

A rear tire blowout affects stability. The back of the vehicle may sway or fishtail. The steering may feel light and vague because the rear has lost its grip. Maintain a firm grip and resist the urge to overcorrect. Let the vehicle slow naturally. Rear blowouts are more likely to cause a loss of control in vehicles with a short wheelbase or high center of gravity.

The change-it-or-call-it decision

Once stopped, you need to decide whether to change the tire yourself or call for help. This is a safety judgment, not a capability judgment. A driver who is perfectly capable of changing a tire should still call for help if the conditions are unsafe.

  • Change it yourself if: the flat is on the non-traffic side of the vehicle, the shoulder is wide and firm, you have a spare tire and the tools to change it, visibility is good, and you have enough room to work without being in the path of traffic.
  • Call for help if: the flat is on the traffic side, the shoulder is narrow, visibility is poor, you are on a curve or hill where approaching drivers cannot see you, traffic speed is high, or conditions (rain, darkness, extreme cold) make working at the roadside unsafe. A tow truck with warning lights and a blocking vehicle makes the job safe.

For the full tire-change procedure, including jack placement, lug nut sequence, and torque specifications, see Changing a Flat Tire. For tire inspection, pressure maintenance, and tread depth, see Tires and Wheels.

Engine and systems

Overheating, brake failure, and loss of power.

Engine overheating

The temperature gauge climbing into the red zone, or a temperature warning light illuminating, means the engine is not being cooled properly. Common causes include coolant loss from a leak or a burst hose, a failed thermostat stuck in the closed position, a broken water pump, a failed electric cooling fan, or a radiator blocked by debris or internal deposits. Continuing to drive an overheating engine can crack the engine block, warp the cylinder head, or blow a head gasket, turning a $200 to $500 repair into a $3,000 to $5,000 one.

The overheating procedure

  1. 1. Turn the heater to maximum heat, fan on high. This sounds counterintuitive, but the heater core is a small radiator. Running the heater at full blast pulls heat from the engine into the cabin. Roll down the windows for your own comfort.
  2. 2. Turn off the air conditioning. The A/C compressor adds load to the engine and the condenser blocks airflow to the radiator. Turning it off reduces engine load and improves radiator cooling.
  3. 3. Monitor the temperature gauge. If the temperature drops, you may be able to drive carefully to a safe location or a shop, keeping the heater on and watching the gauge continuously. If the temperature does not drop, or if it continues to rise, pull over immediately.
  4. 4. Pull over and turn off the engine. Follow the standard pull-over procedure. Once stopped, open the hood to allow heat to dissipate, but do not touch anything under the hood yet.
  5. 5. Wait at least 30 minutes before touching the cooling system. The radiator cap, coolant reservoir, and hoses are pressurized and extremely hot. Opening the radiator cap while hot can cause a geyser of boiling coolant that produces severe burns. Wait until the engine has cooled enough that the upper radiator hose is cool to the touch.
  6. 6. Check the coolant level. Once cool, open the coolant reservoir cap (not the radiator cap) and check the level. If it is low, add coolant or plain water as an emergency measure. If the level is normal but the engine overheated, the problem is mechanical (thermostat, water pump, fan) and needs professional diagnosis. See Diagnosing Problems for the complete diagnostic approach.

Brake failure

Total brake failure in a modern vehicle is extremely rare. Since the late 1960s, all passenger vehicles have used a dual-circuit hydraulic braking system, meaning the brakes are split into two independent circuits. If one circuit fails, the other still provides braking force, although with a longer pedal travel and reduced stopping power. What most drivers experience as "brake failure" is usually one of three things: brake fade from overheated brakes on a long downhill grade, a partial hydraulic failure in one circuit (soft pedal but some stopping power), or a power brake booster failure (very hard pedal but brakes still work with strong leg pressure).

The brake failure response

  1. 1. Pump the brake pedal rapidly. Several firm, quick presses may build enough hydraulic pressure in a partially failed circuit to provide some braking. If the pedal firms up, use whatever braking you have.
  2. 2. Downshift. Move the transmission from Drive to the lowest available gear: 3, then 2, then 1, or use the manual shift mode (the +/- gate) to select progressively lower gears. Engine compression provides significant braking force. In a manual transmission, downshift through each gear.
  3. 3. Apply the parking brake gradually. The parking brake is a mechanical cable system, separate from the hydraulic system. Apply it slowly and steadily, not abruptly. It acts on only two wheels and can cause a skid or spin if applied too aggressively, especially on wet or icy roads. Use the release button or handle to modulate pressure.
  4. 4. Look for an escape route. An uphill grade, a soft surface like gravel or grass, a runaway truck ramp on a mountain descent, or friction against a curb will help slow the vehicle. Avoid anything that would cause the vehicle to flip: deep ditches, large rocks, or concrete barriers at a sharp angle.
  5. 5. Warn other drivers. Hazard lights, horn, and headlight flashing alert drivers around you that something is wrong.

Preventing brake fade. On long mountain descents, use engine braking (a lower gear) to control speed rather than riding the brakes. Continuous brake application heats the brake pads and rotors until the friction material cannot generate adequate stopping force. Professional truck drivers call this "fading the brakes." The procedure is to select a gear low enough to maintain a safe speed without using the brake pedal except for minor speed adjustments. If you smell a hot or burning odor from the brakes on a downhill grade, you are already overheating them.

Engine stall or loss of power

If the engine dies while driving, two critical things change immediately. Power steering stops working, making the steering wheel very heavy, especially at low speeds. Power brake assist stops working, making the brake pedal very hard and requiring much more leg force to slow the vehicle. Both systems still function, but they require significantly more physical effort. You can still control the vehicle. It just takes strength.

  • Do not turn off the ignition or remove the key. In many vehicles, turning the ignition to the off position or removing the key activates the steering column lock, which will prevent you from steering. Leave the key in the ignition and in the "on" or "accessory" position.
  • Signal and steer to the shoulder using firm pressure. The steering will be heavy but responsive. Use both arms.
  • Apply the brakes with strong, steady force. You will need to push much harder than normal. The first press may feel like the pedal barely responds. Press harder. The brakes work, but without the power booster you must provide the force yourself.
  • Once stopped, try restarting. Shift to park, turn the key off, wait a few seconds, then try to start the engine. If it restarts, monitor the dashboard for warning lights. If it does not restart, secure the vehicle and call for help.

Common causes of a sudden stall include fuel starvation (running out of gas, a failed fuel pump), an electrical system failure (alternator failure draining the battery), a broken timing belt (engine stops immediately with no warning), or an overheating-related seizure. See Diagnosing Problems for the systematic approach.

Additional scenarios

Dead batteries, fires, and locked vehicles.

Dead battery

A dead battery is the most common roadside assistance call. You turn the key and get a slow crank, clicking, or nothing at all. Causes include leaving headlights or interior lights on, a failing battery (typical lifespan is three to five years), extreme cold (battery capacity drops significantly below freezing), a parasitic electrical draw from a malfunctioning component, or a failing alternator that did not keep the battery charged while driving.

If you carry jumper cables or a portable jump starter in your vehicle emergency kit, a dead battery in a parking lot is a minor inconvenience. The jump-start procedure is covered in detail in Simple Owner Maintenance. A portable lithium jump starter is one of the highest-value items in any emergency kit: it is compact, it works without another vehicle, and it can start most passenger vehicles multiple times on a single charge.

After a successful jump start, drive the vehicle for at least 20 to 30 minutes to allow the alternator to recharge the battery. If the battery is more than three to four years old and has died once, have it tested. Most auto parts stores test batteries for free. A battery that has failed once will usually fail again, often at a less convenient time.

Vehicle fire

Vehicle fires are less common than other breakdowns, with NFPA reporting approximately 174,000 highway vehicle fires per year in the United States, but they are the most time-critical emergency you can face on the road. The warning signs include smoke from under the hood or beneath the vehicle, a burning smell (electrical burning smells acrid and chemical; fluid burning smells oily or sweet), visible flames, or a suddenly inoperative electrical system accompanied by smoke.

Vehicle fire response

  1. 1. Pull over immediately. Signal, move to the shoulder or any available space, and stop the vehicle.
  2. 2. Turn off the engine. This stops the fuel pump, reduces electrical current, and removes the ignition source for fuel-related fires.
  3. 3. Get everyone out. All occupants exit the vehicle immediately. Do not stop to collect belongings. Move at least 100 feet away from the vehicle and upwind of any smoke.
  4. 4. Call 911. Report a vehicle fire, your location, and whether anyone is injured.
  5. 5. Use a fire extinguisher only if it is safe to do so. If the fire is small and contained to a visible area (engine compartment, wheel well), and you have a fire extinguisher rated for automotive use (5-B:C or 10-B:C minimum), you may attempt to suppress it. If the fire is under the hood, do not fully open the hood. Release the hood latch from inside the vehicle, open the hood a few inches, and direct the extinguisher nozzle through the gap. A standard portable extinguisher provides roughly 10 to 15 seconds of discharge. If the fire does not diminish immediately, stop, retreat, and wait for the fire department.
  6. 6. Do not fight the fire if: flames have reached the passenger compartment, there is heavy black smoke, you feel heat through the vehicle body, the fire is near the fuel tank (rear of vehicle), or you are downwind of toxic smoke. Vehicle fires can grow from contained to fully involved in less than two minutes. Your life is worth more than the vehicle.

Personal safety

Roadside safety and calling for help.

Staying safe at the roadside

Standing on the shoulder of a busy highway is one of the most dangerous places a person can be. Vehicles pass at 60 to 70 mph, creating wind blast and leaving very little margin. Every year, people are struck and killed while dealing with breakdowns, changing tires, or waiting for help at the roadside. The decision of whether to stay in or get out of the vehicle is the most important safety judgment in any breakdown.

  • Highway shoulder, vehicle safely off the road: stay inside. Keep your seatbelt on, doors locked, and hazard lights flashing. The vehicle's body provides protection if another vehicle strikes it, which is more protection than your body has standing outside. This is the correct choice in the majority of highway breakdown situations.
  • Vehicle in an active travel lane: get out. If the vehicle cannot be moved out of the travel lanes, exit from the passenger side (away from traffic), move well clear of the roadway, and get behind a guardrail, embankment, or substantial barrier. Do not stand behind or in front of the vehicle. A vehicle struck at highway speed can be pushed or spun in any direction.
  • Signs of fire: get out immediately. Smoke, flames, or a strong fuel smell mean exit the vehicle, move 100+ feet away, and call 911.
  • If you must exit on the traffic side, check mirrors, wait for a gap in traffic, open the door only as far as necessary, and move quickly around the front or rear of the vehicle to the non-traffic side. Never stand between your vehicle and moving traffic.

Visibility protects your life

  • Hazard lights stay on. The flashing lights are your primary warning to approaching traffic. If the battery dies and the hazard lights stop, replace this warning with reflective triangles, LED flares, or any other visible warning device from your kit.
  • Reflective triangles at 10, 100, and 200+ feet. Place them on the traffic side, walking away from the vehicle and facing oncoming traffic so you can see approaching vehicles. The 200-foot triangle gives highway-speed drivers roughly two seconds of warning.
  • Reflective vest. If you must work outside the vehicle or walk along the roadside, a reflective safety vest makes you visible. This is a small, inexpensive item that belongs in every vehicle emergency kit.
  • At night, all of this matters more. A dark vehicle on a dark shoulder with no warning devices is nearly invisible to drivers until headlights illuminate it at close range, which may be too late to avoid.

What to tell dispatch

Whether you call 911, a roadside assistance number, or a family member, clear information gets the right help to you faster. Gather this information mentally while pulling over so it is ready when the call connects.

  • Exact location. Highway number and direction of travel, nearest mile marker or exit number, or GPS coordinates from your phone's map app. Cross streets if on local roads. "Northbound I-77 near mile marker 82" is specific. "Somewhere on the highway near Elkin" takes longer to find.
  • Vehicle description. Year, make, model, and color. "A white 2019 Honda CR-V" is faster than "a white SUV."
  • License plate number. Helps identify your vehicle among others on the shoulder.
  • The problem. Be specific: "Left rear tire is flat," "Steam from under the hood," "Engine died and will not restart," "Warning light came on and the car is shaking." Specific descriptions help dispatchers send the right equipment.
  • Number of people and any injuries or medical needs. "Two adults and two children, no injuries" tells dispatch the scope immediately.
  • Your situation. Are you safely off the road? Is the vehicle blocking traffic? Are there hazards (steep drop, no guardrail, near a curve)?

Roadside assistance programs

Having a roadside assistance membership means one phone call gets a trained responder with the right equipment to your location. The cost of membership is typically less than the cost of a single tow.

  • AAA is the largest roadside assistance provider in the United States, covering roughly 55 million members. Basic membership covers towing to the nearest shop (usually 5 to 7 miles). Plus and Premier tiers cover longer towing distances, which matters in rural areas where the nearest shop may be 30 or more miles away. Know your tier.
  • Auto insurance roadside coverage is offered by most major insurers as an add-on, typically $2 to $5 per month. Coverage varies by insurer but usually includes towing, jump starts, lockout service, and flat tire changes. Check your policy to know what is included.
  • Vehicle manufacturer programs. Many new vehicles include complimentary roadside assistance for the first few years of ownership, tied to the warranty period. Check your owner's manual or call the manufacturer's customer service line to confirm your coverage and expiration date.
  • Store the number in your phone now. Whichever service you use, put the number in your phone contacts with a name you will find quickly under stress. "AAA" or "Roadside Help" is easier to find than scrolling through a contact list while standing on a highway shoulder at 10 PM.

Collision response

What to do after a collision.

If you are involved in a collision, the first priority is safety, the second is medical care, and the third is documentation. Most people reverse this order because the documentation feels urgent and the adrenaline masks injuries. Follow the sequence below, in order, regardless of how minor the collision appears.

The collision response sequence

  1. 1. Stop. Leaving the scene of a collision is a crime in every state, even for minor property damage. Pull over as close to the scene as safely possible without blocking traffic.
  2. 2. Check for injuries. Check yourself and your passengers first. Then check the other vehicle's occupants if you can do so safely. Adrenaline can mask serious injuries, so check even if everyone says they are fine. Neck and back pain, headache, and dizziness may appear hours later.
  3. 3. Call 911 if anyone is injured, if vehicles are blocking traffic, or if there is significant damage. Many states require a police report for any collision above a minimum damage threshold (typically $500 to $2,500 depending on the state). Even if not legally required, a police report is valuable for insurance claims.
  4. 4. Move vehicles out of traffic if possible and safe. Many states have "move it" laws requiring vehicles involved in minor collisions to be moved off the road to prevent secondary crashes. If the vehicles are drivable and no one is injured, move them to the shoulder, a parking lot, or a side street. Take photos of the scene before moving anything.
  5. 5. Document everything. Take photos of all vehicles involved from multiple angles, including close-ups of damage, license plates, and the overall scene. Photograph the road conditions, any relevant signs or signals, skid marks, and debris. Note the time, weather conditions, and lighting.
  6. 6. Exchange information. Name, phone number, address, driver's license number, insurance company and policy number, and license plate number for every driver involved. If there are witnesses, ask for their name and phone number. Be polite but factual. Do not admit fault or speculate about what happened.
  7. 7. Contact your insurance company. Report the collision promptly, even if you believe the other driver is at fault. Your insurer needs to know about every collision, and delayed reporting can complicate claims.

Keep an accident information card in your vehicle. Under stress, remembering what information to collect is difficult. A pre-printed card with blanks for each piece of information (included in many vehicle emergency kits and available as a free download from most insurance companies) makes the documentation step straightforward when your hands are shaking.

Even minor collisions can cause hidden damage. Seatbelt pretensioners that partially fired, shifted airbag sensors, cracked bumper absorbers, and misaligned radar sensors for ADAS features can all result from impacts that leave little visible exterior damage. Have the vehicle inspected by a qualified body shop before assuming everything is fine. Your safety systems page explains why post-collision inspection matters for crash protection.

Know the limits

When to call a professional.

Some roadside situations are within a prepared driver's capability. Others are not, and attempting a fix in a dangerous location or without the right knowledge makes things worse. Knowing the line between the two is itself one of the most valuable skills a driver can have.

  • The flat tire is on the traffic side. Changing a tire with your back to 65 mph traffic, kneeling at wheel height, with no protection between you and passing vehicles, is one of the most dangerous common activities a person can do on a highway. A tow truck with warning lights and a blocking vehicle creates a protected work zone. You with a jack do not.
  • The vehicle will not start and you do not know why. A dead battery that responds to a jump start is a manageable problem. An engine that cranks but will not start, makes unusual noises, or shows unfamiliar warning lights needs a technician with a diagnostic scanner. The scanner reads fault codes that tell the technician what system has failed. Without it, you are guessing.
  • You smell gasoline or see fluid leaking rapidly. A fuel leak is a fire hazard. Brake fluid leaking means your braking system is compromised. Coolant pouring out means the engine will overheat within minutes if restarted. Move away from the vehicle and call for help. Do not attempt to restart or drive.
  • There are signs of fire. Smoke, flames, acrid electrical smell, or melting plastic. Get everyone out, move 100+ feet away, and call 911. Use a fire extinguisher only under the specific conditions described earlier in this page.
  • The vehicle was in a collision. Even a minor one. Safety system sensors, structural components, and fluid lines may be damaged in ways that are not visible from the outside. Do not drive the vehicle until it has been inspected.
  • You are in an unfamiliar area at night. Personal safety takes priority over fixing the vehicle. Lock the doors, keep hazard lights on, call for help, and wait inside the vehicle. If someone stops to offer help, you can ask them to call for assistance without getting out.
  • Anyone is injured. Call 911 first. Do not move an injured person unless there is an immediate threat such as fire or an unstable vehicle position. If you have first aid training, provide care within your training level. Vehicle problems are secondary to medical emergencies.
  • Conditions make the work unsafe. Heavy rain, ice, extreme cold, darkness without adequate lighting, or high-speed traffic with a narrow shoulder. Any of these conditions, individually, makes roadside work significantly more dangerous. Multiple conditions together may make it genuinely reckless. Calling for professional help is not giving up. It is recognizing that the conditions exceed what a person without professional equipment should attempt.

"Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst."

English proverb

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